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Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Friday, March 30, 2012

Outpost for Sportsgirl


I'm really excited to write this post because I've been looking forward to this range coming out for almost a whole year! My awesome friend Jess from was selected to show her 4th year collection at the Sportsgirl Graduate Showcase at Loreal Melbourne Fashion Festival last year. That was exciting enough in itself, but what we didn't know then was that the sponsors were looking for two designers  to produce a capsule range for Sportsgirl's inaugural 'Graduate Collection'. This meant that Jess had to re-work the ideas from her range (there's a photo of the original range in my post about our fashion show) into five garments that would appeal to the Sportsgirl customer, working with Sportsgirl and attending fittings all year. The range is out now and I was so excited and proud that I ran out as soon as I heard and bought a jumper, skirt and shirt.


Me and my grumpy face showing off the chunky knit jumper, the "Jess" voile shirt and the knit skirt.


The range is in select Sportsgirl stores now and online at Sportsgirl.com.au

Tuesday, November 22, 2011

Transformation

Thought I'd share with you a video I made for the U@UTS Summer School that I'm teaching at. We had an orientation for it the other day and I made this video as an intro to the fashion workshops.
The first few clips are from the 2010 UTS Grad show, and the others are all related to the 'transformation' theme of the summer school. Enjoy!


Untitled from Ali Kenworthy on Vimeo.

Some of the clips used are:

ISSEY MIYAKE - Animation by Euphrates
Hussein Chalayan - Transformer Dress
Hussein Chalayan - Autum/Winter 2000
Animorfos
Viktor & Rolf

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Latest Links

Articles, photos, blogs, art and other generally awesome things I've found on the internet lately.


Not ugly shoes from Twins for Peace (via Frankie magazine). I love the idea of Toms: for every pair you buy, they give a pair of shoes to a child in need. Let's face it though - they're ugly. No matter how many cool people wear them and make them cool by association, they are not good looking shoes. Twins for Peace have a similar concept, and look cool.

"Each TWINS collection is associated with a Shoe Project that we establish in partnership with an NGO in a developing country. Each time you wear you TWINS, you act as a TWINS Ambassador. The TWINS you bought have financed the donation of a second pair of shoes to a needy child. The second pair of shoes are produced in the Shoe Project's country, as a way to stimulate its economy. Each pair of shoes donated is tailored to the needs of the children."

Draw! Pilgrim sells beautiful prints and also has a great blog

Should Be On The Nanny photoshops Fran Drescher's head onto current fashion photos that look like the sort of outfits Miss Fine used to wear on The Nanny. I don't think I need to explain why that's awesome.

I love these photos of Michelle Phillips of The Mamas and The Papas (from theredtelephone)




Kate and William looked gorgeous on Armed Forces Day last week (via What Kate Wore)

For next time - what's the best thing you've found on the internet lately?

Friday, June 24, 2011

Holly Fulton

Holly Fulton is one of my favourite current designers. Her work is distinctive and instantly recognisable with her focus on jewellery and art deco embellishment.
I love her colour palettes, 60s silhouettes and geometric prints. When gathering inspiration for my grad collection last year, I had a lot of Holly Fulton images on my mood boards!













all images from style.com and hollyfulton.com

Which designers are you loving at the moment?

and...

Have you liked Bell Street's Facebook page yet?

Saturday, June 18, 2011

Zero-Waste Patternmaking

Zero-waste patternmaking is the art of creating a pattern for the garment which uses every part of a piece of fabric - so there are no scraps left over. It's a lot harder than it sounds and requires you to design 'backwards', in that the shape of the pattern pieces takes first priority over the final appearance of the garment. You might have seen it on Project Runway once, when it was set as a challenge. I think one of the contestants ended up making a handbag and stuffing the scraps inside!

I first learned about zero-waste patternmaking while I was at uni. We had a tutor called Timo Rissanen who was working on his PhD on Fashion Creation Without Fabric Waste Creation. He is now teaching at Parsons in New York and has become known as a bit of an expert on zero waste fashion and sustainable design.


Timo had an exhibition at uni while I was there and we were fascinated by his pattern diagrams and the interesting details on the resulting garments. Timo's blog has drawn my attention to other zero-waste designers (This post is a great place to start).

Sam Formo



Holly McQuillan - Spot the words 'war' and 'peace' in these patterns!

Tara St James - Study N.Y. I think this is who my friend Laura is interning with at the moment. Speaking of Laura, her uni collection was also zero-waste.

Laura Poole

When I was working on my Convertible Pretzel and Window Shopper bags, I had zero-waste patternmaking in mind and designed the marker (layout of the pattern pieces) so that I could fit both styles in one piece of fabric with zero waste. This was partly for sustainable reasons, but mostly to make the bags more affordable and to eliminate mess in the studio! I can't stand having little bits of fabric all over the place, I'm constantly wondering whether a piece is a rubbish or a lost pattern piece, is it too small to keep or too big to throw out, will it come in handy at one point? So much easier to eliminate the waste altogether.

The marker for the Convertible Pretzel and Window Shopper Bags

I do, however, have two confessions to make.
One, zero-waste patternmaking is pretty easy when your patterns consist entirely of different sized rectangles. I'm not even going to try and compete with people who design whole collections this way!
Two, I wasn't entirely successful. I was left with a small rectangle left over that I have been trying to figure out how to use. Luckily, an idea for a cute clutch bag popped into my head the other day and I can't wait to make a sample and show you! It won't be a zero-waste pattern, but it's small enough that it will fit in that leftover space.
The eagle-eyed among you will also notice that the Convertible Pretzel bag's flap has rounded corners - so there are some teeny tiny scraps there!

Thursday, May 26, 2011

Mentors


Awhile ago (actually, over a year ago) I did a post on Paul Smith, intended as the first in a series of posts about my mentors. I never did any other mentor posts - although I guess I could count Elton John as a style mentor and I have mentioned Kylie Hawkes on here before.
The mentor thing came about when this blog was being written as an assignment. The subject was called Professional Practice and it was all about preparing to graduate, finding jobs and exploring who we are as designers. We were given the task of identifying who our mentors were. At first I was confused because despite what Whitney Houston said, I've never searched for a hero or someone to look up to. My parents do the job pretty well and I've always liked to figure things out by myself.
I finally understood the task when my teacher explained that mentors don't always need to be like Mr Miyagi from the Karate Kid - they can be people you don't know, they can be in a completely different industry. It's just about identifying people who you admire and can learn from in some way.
This post by Nubby Twiglet reminded me of the whole mentor thing and I thought I should finally finish what I started last year and tell you about the rest of my mentors. I'm not doing a whole post on each, though - just a little bit about them and why I chose them.


Nubby Twiglet is my blogging/online mentor. She's a freelance graphic designer and has pretty much nailed the whole using-your-blog-to-promote-your-business thing. She's created a strong personal brand and an excellent website that showcases her aesthetic and allows readers to get to know the person behind the work. She's always generous with her advice and I can learn a lot from her through reading her blog, especially her 'Ask Nubby' posts.


Mary Quant is my ultimate I-want-to-be-just-like-you mentor. She was a huge influence on the sixties fashion scene and her first shop 'Bazaar' gave me the idea for my dissertation on fashion retail in sixties London. She inspires me because she managed to build a very successful fashion business without slaving to the deadlines and expectations of the ‘fashion world’. She ignored the conventions of two seasons a year and designed small collections all year round, constantly adapting and changing the brand to reflect what her customers wanted.

I have read her book 'Quant by Quant' over and over, and when Mum and I were in London last year we tracked down her original shop, which is now a pasty shop. We had a cup of tea there and when we checked with the waiter that it was indeed the location of her shop, he was so excited that we knew! He was a big Mary Quant fan and so was the other guy working there, who was a fashion student. He then introduced us to some people sitting outside who have lived in Chelsea since the fifties and had some cool memories of the King's Road and Bazaar. I love that even though the shop itself is long gone, there's a sort of Mary Quant appreciation club going on at the pasty shop!

Me with my new friends outside the original location of Bazaar


Kylie Hawkes is the only one I actually know personally. That isn't her in the photo, it's a model wearing my favourite ever shorts which I have in black and pink and the world's comfiest jumper which I have in grey. I've worked for Kylie for about two and a half years and am always learning. She did the same course as me at the same uni, and won the business competition that I came second in last year. Her eponymous label started out at Paddington markets and is now sold in select boutiques all around the country. Oh, and online - she happens to be having a sale on OzSale this weekend! what a coincidence!


Paul Smith is my if-my-dad-was-a-fashion-designer mentor. As I explained in my post about him, there are a lot of similarities between Paul Smith and my dad. They are both called Paul, they both get up early to go swimming every morning, they are both obsessed with cycling and the tour de france. They've also both owned a mini cooper and they both like Harry Potter. So they're pretty much the same except one's a fashion designer and the other isn't. Although with me doing a fashion degree and Mum being a fashion teacher, My dad's probably been to more fashion shows than the average dad. Now I've talked more about Dad than about Paul Smith but I already talked about why he's awesome in last year's post.


Now I feel like I have to mention my mum after all that dad-rambling. She taught me to sew and let me use as much fabric as I liked and use the sewing machine as often as I wanted. Then she said I didn't have to go to uni after high school which turned out to be a bit of clever reverse psychology but it worked so I have her to thank for becoming a fashion designer. She also let me take the good sewing machine and overlocker when I moved out, so that was pretty awesome. Mum had her own little business in the 80s making appliqued jumpers with koalas and gum leaves and stuff on them that hipster kids would probably spend $80 on now for their kitschy-Australiana-coolness.


Pete Townshend of The Who was also listed in my mentor assignment because I had this thing at uni where I would try to sneak The Who into as many assignments as possible (I was pretty successful). I chose Pete because, like my other mentors, he does things differently. He looks at everything as art and is always striving to do something new, preferring to write experimental concept albums rather than aiming for ‘hits’. He's a bit of a grumpy bugger now but I think you're allowed to be when you've had the same job for fifty years! He's got an autobiography coming out next year and I can't wait to read it.

Who are your mentors?